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  1. #1

    Post [Answered] Rare YLOD symptoms in PS3 help?

    I use it horizontally. It does turn off when cold. For example, I haven't used it for 24hrs, then right now I decided to use it,

    1. turned on and stayed on for 7 secs, it beeps 3 times the shows the yellow light then flashes red until I touch the power button again.
    2. turned on for the second time and only lasted 18 secs, it beeps 3 times the shows the yellow light then flashes red until I touch the power button again.
    3. turned on for the third time and only lasted 7 secs, it beeps 3 times the shows the yellow light then flashes red until I touch the power button again.
    4. turned on for the fourth time and this time it stays on forever If i dont try to run games.

    After trying to run a game it turns off... it beeps 3 times the shows the yellow light then flashes red until I touch the power button again. I have to do those 4 steps fast so the console can get a little warmup because if try to turn it on leaving minutes pass by between power on's the console will keep going to step 1 as stated above. Its like the console needs a warmup to work, but then fails to load games. The console is in a very ventilated area with 2 12v fans attached to it.

    It has 3.55CFW installed.

    UPDATE: I did the reflow on it and it did not get better nor worse, its just doing the same thing as explained above. what other things could cause this?

    The temperatures of the cpu and rsx gathered by multiman are the following,


    After the fourth time of turning it on, I played a 3d bluray movie and it never shutdown, but it will shutdown with any game.
    Best Answer - Posted by Anger007:

    my advice is try and get another psu as checking the ps3 for current is very dangerous. on top of that i think you covered every other possibility, it really does seem like a psu problem. anyway try and get a new psu because unless you like 20-30 amps of current going through your body (thats enough to kill) its actually not worth it.

    silly question - is your fan inside your ps3 working?

    if you insist on checking your own psu then you need to remove it then attach a crocodile clip to the metal outside and join the other end to the ps3 shielding metal then get a bit of wire and attach one end to one of the metal prongs on the ps3 (avoiding shorts) and the other end of that cable where the prong fits in the psu then for the other side attach positive lead of multimeter where other prong would go and attach negative lead to the second prong on the ps3 mainboard (all connections should be secure as if any slip it may fry your machine worse than it is).

  2. #2
    definitely sounds like a cold solder joint, which is a solder joint that isnt properly connected when cold but when heated up connects and works however when stressed it breaks again. one thing i have to add - i tried adding a fan to my setup and it blew the hot air from the gpu onto the cpu causing it to ylod very quickly so more fans is not always a good thing - in fact the extra fan might be taking too much power from the psu causing the system to ylod. i would remove all extra fans and perform a more thorough reflow on the gpu mostly but do the cpu as well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    sounds like a busted Power Supply for me.

  4. #4
    It make sense... but the fans are drawing power from an external ac power supply.

    Quote Originally Posted by niwakun View Post
    sounds like a busted Power Supply for me.
    How can I test it with a multimeter?
    Last edited by xboxgt12; 10-05-2012 at 09:58 PM Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  5. #5
    its tricky, in fact its not worth doing you really need an oscilloscope. its far easier to borrow a psu from another ps3 system of the same model or even buy one if you can afford it but beware it may not be the psu. honestly i would just sell it for spares and buy a good used one, because this kind of fault is so hard to track down without a supply of parts and some health knowledge of the ps3 electrical system as well.
    i still go with stopping the extra fans and see how the machine responds because if its different then it will be easier to find the problem.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Quote Originally Posted by xboxgt12 View Post
    How can I test it with a multimeter?
    measure the amperage, if it drops to reasonable level, probably way too low from 18amps (yeah, most psu have 20-38amps) the PS3 goes red blinking due to lack of power.

    note that PS3 games does take extra PSU power, in my test, from early fat models, XMB occurs at 23amps and in-game it hits 25-27amps. PS2 games can hit 30amps or more. So yeah, that's it.

    i only tested this with CECHA and CECHC models, later models have different power amperage requirements.
    Last edited by niwakun; 10-06-2012 at 11:53 PM Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  7. #7
    It really sounds like an interest point of view, but can this lack of power cause the ps3 to shutdown 3-4 times then start normally working?

    Now the cold solder joint theory sounds like a more realistic problem. How many seconds on each chip should I apply heat with the gun, since 1 reflow has been done.
    Last edited by xboxgt12; 10-07-2012 at 12:57 PM Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    On my NAND with 350C heatgun:

    15sec rotating in a circle on each of the 4 areas on the mainboard after cleaning it from all old "thermal paste" then AT LEAST 15min waiting for cooling down WITHOUT MOVING the board. Then same procedure on the other side of the board WITH COOLING-DOWN-TIME (at least 15min)...

  9. #9
    my advice is get some liquid flux and use it before doing the reflow as the solder is probably dried out by now.

    my heat gun is unbranded so i dont know what temp it uses but i use flux as well so my heat time is 35 seconds per chip per side of the board.
    i use less time on the rear side of the board and i usually dont bother with it even tho your supposed to.

    Be aware i have tested the time it takes me with my heatgun and if you use my time without checking you could damage your ps3 permanently.

    i suspect that even 35 seconds for me isnt enough because i have a ps3 which definitely has a broken solder joint and 35 seconds isnt enough to fix it.
    the chip could be permanently buggered however it may be that the solder isnt getting enough heat.

    btw best way to tell how long to use for the heat gun you have is use an old circuit board and use the heat gun until the solder just melts then add a few seconds when your doing the fix to your ps3 (because the chips in the ps3 have heatspreaders on them).

    also i will reiterate whats been said - do NOT move the board or even bump it in any way as one single dislodged component means you could have a brick (unless your very very lucky).

  10. #10
    Ok guys, the second reflow was made but nothing changed at all, it keeps doing the same thing. I gave 30 secs on each chip and the rams too. I'm about to give up.

    I even replaced the hdd.
    2 reflows done.
    New Artic silver 5 thermal paste.
    Started ps3 without bluray drive, without the little board that recognizes the controller. bent the 2 metal clamps for more pressure.

    All of that with no good results.

    Can it really be the power supply? How do I measure it, with ps3 on or off? Where do I stick multimeter's probes to? I will be checking the amp right?

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