Thread: Is my PS3 Dead?
Is my PS3 Dead?
Hello all Forum Members,
I really need your help. My PS3 just broke down yesterday. I woke up in the morning, and at about 11AM, I switched on my PlayStation, and wanted to look for some photos. I selected a picture slide show. In a few seconds, the console just shut down. I tried to switch it on again, but got first a green light, followed by a yellow light and finally a flashing red light (along with 3 beeps). The red light keeps flashing and I can't do much about it, except press the power button, and the flashing red light stops and becomes a solid red light. After doing some research, I found out that I had one of 2 problems
A) A hardware error, where one of the hardware components has failed as a result of overheating or something else.
B) A hard drive problem, according to the PlayStation 3 Repair Guide.
I found out that if it is a overheating problem, the repair would cost around Us$150.
Is it either of these problems, or is it a hard drive problem.
I have a PAL System, a CECHC04 model.
Please provide me with help, because I trust the PS3News forum more anything else. I will be more than happy to provide any info.
10-03-2009 #2Banned User
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
The flashing light is just a general error code, that said, there could be one of many many problems.
If you hold the power button when starting up the console can you get into the recovery menu?
10-04-2009 #4Banned User
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
Well if you have tried a few times to get into the recovery menu and were unsuccessful the problem shouldn't be your hdd.
If you have a spare power supply laying around i would try that first (only if your ps3 is out of warranty)
If you do have a warranty left i would just send it out,.. that will likely be your best bet also if you are out of warranty.. that or pick up a ps3 the same model as yours with a bad drive and put yours in it. Which might even cost you less than having sony repair it.
Take your hard drive out of the PS3, it doesnt void warranteess if you still have one. The PS3 will still boot up without the HDD as all the firmware is stored on flash memory within the console. At least this way you will know wheather or not its the HDD or another hardware failiure.
If your out of warranty try this: (The Heating Reflowing part is optional, I would try to just clean it out and repaste the cpus first.)
1. Remove warranty sticker and rubber foot thatís positioned above hard drive bay. This will invalidate any warranty.
2. Using a small flat blade screw driver or slotted torx bit, unscrew cover plate screw.
3. Slide cover plate towards the left until it stops and lift off.
4. Remove all Phillips screws marked noting size and position.
5. Hinge case towards you until disengaged and then tilt towards the left. See below.
6. Remove ribbon cable by carefully lifting black part of connector (locking tab).
7. Lift/tilt blue ray drive towards the right whilst disconnecting power cable and the large ribbon (lift tab) underneath.
8. Remove 5 screws and the earth wire screw on psu, and unplug connector plug. Before removal of psu unplug small bnc connector (black wire) and remove tape on side of psu, now lift off psu.
9. Now remove the wide ribbon from connector (lift tab) unscrew the four screws on the Bluetooth board and remove.
10. Remove hard drive cover.
11. Unscrew blue hard drive screw and disengage hard drive by sliding towards gap in the bay.
12. Remove hard drive, see below.
13. Unscrew 4 screws holding the bracket, on/off and eject control panel. Remove small ribbon (lift tab) and remove control panel.
14. Unscrew 8 screws.
15. Lift enclosure out of plastic base, see below.
16. Now unclip black rear panel and remove.
17. Unscrew 4 screws and remove sprung brackets, see below.
18. Lift of metal cover plate whilst allowing ribbons to pass through gaps in plate without damage, see below. (Taking note where heat sink rubbers are positioned).
19. Supporting fan assembly turn board over, remove fan power connector and fan.
20. Remove 2 screws holding plate to hard drive connector and unplug battery connector.
Now remove plate.
21. Clean off old heat sink compound from the 2 mainprocessors using Isopropyl alcohol making sure all traces of the old heat sink compound has gone.
22. Clean both touch plates on bottom of fan/heat sink assembly with Isopropyl alcohol until all traces of the old heat sink compound has gone.
23. Now using a vacuum cleaner or compressed air blower get rid of all dust build up in the case and on all component parts of the ps3 (pay special attention to the fan assembly and heat sink fins (MUST BE CLEAR OF DUST).
24. Once cleaned you should now have a nice pile of bits that looks something like this, see below.
Now for the tricky bit!
25. Check the top metal cover plate (underside) for burn-in marks, as you can see below this ps3 got very hot before it yloded!
26. Place the ps3 mother board on a flat heat resistive surface (kitchen work top or melamine shelf will be fine).
27. Turn heat gun on and set temperature to 350 deg and the fan speed to low (to high and it will move the surface mount bits).Allow gun to get up to temperature before continuing!
28. Using a circular motion hold heat gun over areas outlined below (keep heat gun an inch above
board/components at all times).
29. CPU side first.
30. After 15 to 20 seconds move onto the next area.
31. Once all marked areas have been heated/reflowed on the mother board LEAVE for at least 10 to 15 minutes to cool. (DO NOT MOVE MOTHER BOARD WHILE COOLING).
32. A popping noise may be heard during cooling, donít worry this is normal.
33. NON CPU side.
34. After 10 to 15 seconds move onto the next area.
35. Once all marked areas have been heated/reflowed on the mother board LEAVE for at least 10 to 15 minutes to cool. (DO NOT MOVE MOTHER BOARD WHILE COOLING).
36. A popping noise may be heard during cooling donít worry this is normal. Heat sink compound still on in this picture, remove before reflowing. Heat sink rubber pads still on in this picture remove
before reflowing also hold ribbons out of way while reflowing
You have just repaired youíre yloded ps3 mother board.
37. Now its time to apply new heat sink compound to the 2 processors, when doing this its always best to follow the manufacturers instructions but I believe the process is the same with all types (please check instructions that come with paste), before continuing
38. The paste I am using is called AKASA 450 itís a silver based compound with a thermal conductivity of 9.24w/m deg c and an operating range of 0 to 200 deg c. You can buy it from most pc shops but I get mine from my local Maplin ( I have been told that there is a better compound on the market called arctic silver but I havenít tried it as yet so the choice is yours).
39. Use syringe supplied and dispense a small worm of compound from top to bottom on the left hand side of processor chip, now using credit card supplied spread compound evenly and thinly over processor face (to much is bad and not enough is also bad) the ideal amount is when you can almost see through the paste.
40. Now repeat on the other processor.
41. Reassemble the PS3.
Here is it on the Artic MX-3 website: arctic-cooling.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=39_&mID=274&language=en
Tested and proven, by using the ARCTIC MX-3, the CPU core temperature is 7įC and 2.5įC lower than using stock compound and other branded ones respectively. It shows how significant a high performance thermal compound can be to reduce the temperature. Such excellent cooling result is surely what every overclocker and gamer is looking for. The ARCTIC MX-3 is the easiest way to push the overclockability further!
The ARCTIC MX-3 is a metal-free, non-electrically conductive compound which does not cause any damage of the components if it is accidentally spilled out on them. It eliminates any risks of short circuit and provides more protection to the CPUs, graphic cards and other applications between power semiconductor components and heatsinks. The ARCTIC MX-3 is a truly hassle-free premium thermal compound you can rely on.