did you try the hex file provided in a post above... ?
just run the flip utility and flash it or else find the correct values for your board...
OK i will try that hex file if i understand the flash procedure.
I can't find instructions anywhere
If you can give me a link the the board you have I could probably build you a hex file, but you should just try ones for the at90usb192 - like I said, it's basically the same chip. All the original builds were for that chip, so the main problem is what clock you have.
If you're really unsure, it'll probably tell you the clock speed on the crystal. It'll most likely be 16.0M, 8.0M or 12.0M. The crystal is probably oval shaped and silver, in case you don't know what that looks like...
Here is the link from ebay where i buy the board :
I will wait for your file and for instructions how to flash the board.
Thank you very very much for your interest
That gives very little information beyond that it is at least a 32u2 chip. Look on the board and find out the clock speed. It does sound like a variant of the AVR-USB-162
Probably, just try all the clock speed variants for the teensy. The LEDs might not work, but everything else should be fine. If you need to reprogram it, it should be easy. Hold down HWB and press RST and it'll go back to programming mode.
Gotta work now, but good luck.
I will try to flash it if i find the instructions how to do it and i will tell you how it goes.
Thank you very much.
The clock speed is 8 mhz i think, it says TXC G 8.00KN1S, please help. Thanks a ton in advance.
Some people said that maybe this file in this post will work for Atmega32u2 :
Is working !!! The only problem is with the leds. Wont light up.
Can somebody make them work ?
Thank you everyone for the help and the interested
Last edited by Yngwiedis; 09-07-2010 at 10:57 PM Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Basically, this is the main difference between all the boards as the LEDs could be wired up to any of the 22 IO pins and the LEDs could be wired active high or low. Without a programmers manual for the board, it'd just be guesswork.
Fortunately, the LEDs are neither here nor there really. You know within seconds whether the hack worked or not anyway.
If i take pictures of the board so you can see where the leds are, you think you can fix a version with working leds ?