I'm just confused on what you mean right installation position. Can you elaborate more on that?
And I'll check on that hard drive slot. Now about the clip, what exactly am I looking for? If the pins are connecting properly on the motherboard? It seems that there is no "true" snap for it so it won't move so I applied some tape to make sure it won't move.
Ok so I've looked at the flasher part that is inserted into the slot where the HDD goes. It's snug so I know it should be able to connect. So I'm confused on where the problem could be.
E3 Flasher blue lights aren't even coming on now
So I had a previous problem where I would get the error 10001111 when trying to load the rogero 3.7 patched ps3 bios (only when doing this, I went back and made some more bios backups and they all dumped perfectly)
Many people had told me that it was due to the clip not being connected strongly enough, and they referred me to a video where taping three pennies onto the clip keeps it secure
Where before I would have an error, now the blue lights aren't coming on at all. There is one blue light that blinks sometimes, it shows up and quickly disappears
it could also be a bad damaged board on the faceplate. What can cause it is ESD.
So the board that connects to the part goes into the hard drive slot? What is ESD?
It stands for electrical static discharge. Just make sure to properly ground yourself before working with electrical equipment as in this situation it could have shorted it.
E3 Flasher PS3 Slim 2004a HDD bracket problem?
did downgrade many phat ps3's with E3 Flasher, now Im trying to build one into my PS3 slim with NOR chip, but the hdd bracket is sort of in the way? on the videos I see the bracket is in two pieces, but mine is one..
anyone with a little help?
I'm having the same issue as you did where the log file is empty. How did you get passed that stage where you could install the firmware. Mine looks active for 10 seconds and then stops forever too.
Any help would be appreciated. This is driving me mad.
Hi, for my slim I used a dremel rotary tool to cut the chassis by the HDD area. I just cut a small rectangle so I could clip on the nor clip to the E3 board.
The problem was there was no room to attach the nor clip to the E3 board once it was inserted, until I got to cutting ...
p.s. Sand all edges smooth so you do not damage the nor clip!
Sand it nor clip edge side.. and take coin to press it.. bcoz all 200× model use dyn001 motherboard.. that have small transistor near chip nor.. that make e3 on clip not press well.. for best solution use the linker.. solder the point
Yes, I got it working in the end. Are you trying to dual boot? Here's what I did...
After getting a valid dump when the ps3 was in bits, by using the clip.... I soldered the sbce and the sbe to the 2 points on the e3 ribbon. All good. I used a furniture floor pad (you know, those little flat, felt pads that you put under a table leg on hardwood?) stuck it to the inside of the motherboard housing, right where the clip was, to put the pressure on it when I put all back together...
After it was all back together again, I reflashed the bin again, just to make sure the clp hadn't moved. It did its long process thing here and I got the alternating lights as if it worked. (I had always got errors if the clip hadn't been on properly previously.). So after a successful flash, I downgraded with my dongle. Then, when trying to enter fsm with lv2diag and the patched PS3UPDAT.PUP it would start, just like you said, then sit and do nothing. No HDD light, nothing...
At this point, I suggest, although you had no errors when flashing the bin (alternating flashing lights on e3 faceplate) that it did not in fact flash properly, and your clip has moved when you put the ps3 back together.
Right from your ps3's current state, take another 3 flash dumps and compare their md5's and with the patched bin you flashed to the ps3 in the first place. This is where I saw a whole cluster of inconsistencies, realizing that the clip was dumping very different dumps each time. So, I took the thing apart again, said screw it to dual boot, and just did a regular downgrade.
For me, the bottom line is that the clip didn't work too well and could only apply enough pressure, and the right kind of pressure to it when the case was open. This was the only way I could get a consistent, successful clip connection.
Sorry for the long answer, but details help others in the same situation.
PS, AFTER UNSUCCESSFUL DUAL BOOT ATTEMPT, don't worry if you cut the track between the A and B points, like it tells you in the E3 manual, you DO NOT have to reconnect them if you decide to just downgrade in the end. Saves a lot of time and unnecessary effort. This was the smallest point to solder to on the board, and not forgiving. For me, once I removed the wire for dual boot, the pad was no longer useable.